Beauty lines rarely struggle to generate buzz when they launch. A famous face, a splashy marketing stunt and a single viral product can generate headlines and fast revenue. This success is often fleeting. This case study explores how to create, scale and execute an enduring, future-proofed beauty label.

Too often, white-hot beauty labels fade fast.

The question of longevity is plaguing founders, investors and would-be acquirers alike. Despite the resounding popularity of beauty as a category and the frothy multiples top lines can command, many makers of skincare, haircare, fragrance and makeup products grapple with declining interest and relevance over the years. Founders and executives feel pulled in different directions. In order to cut through in a hyper-competitive environment, they face pressure to create products and campaigns that generate buzz on social media while simultaneously tweaking their assortments to please retailers. Attempting to tick off all these items too quickly can weaken an overall brand proposition.

“It’s not easy to stay true to what [a] brand’s vision is. It’s almost easier to try to replicate the latest textures or colours that are popular,” said Lisa Payne, head of beauty at trends agency Stylus. “But you have to ask [of a trend], ‘It’s viral now. But does it have legs in the future?’”